Sailed from Ushuaia to Cape Horn. Thought we may be sailing around and into to Pacific but turned back towards the Beagle Channel for the transit.
We came quite close to the Cape and were able to take photos of the lighthouse and albatross monument.
Told that the name did not come from the shape of the land but taken from the Dutch town of Hoorne – the hometown of the Dutch explorers who discovered it.
Trivia went quite well but still not contenders. Listened to the lectures – Volcanos, Prisons (ex-prison Governor talking about how they work), Astronomy – all very interesting.
Captain announced that we would not be making our next stop, at Punta Arenas, as weather forecast was for high winds and rough seas. It was a “Tender” port and would be unsafe to launch them. Unfortunately, that means seven days at sea but visiting glaciers on the way, also passing through scenic Beagle Channel and Magellan Strait.
One of the ladies at our dinner table told us that our insurance would pay £150 for each port missed. Would rather have made the visit but we were there on a cruise about 7 years ago.
Docked at about 8am and left the ship at about 9:30. A little cold, at about 8º but wrapped up and no problem.
A number of other cruise ships on the dock but they were quite small “explorer” ships and probably bound for the Antarctic.
The town was bigger than expected and we wandered around for about an hour and a half. I was a bit surprised to find ski hire and ski equipment shops.
We had avoided the crowd of people offering tours, as we left the dock but decided to return, to see what was on offer. I wanted to take the train to the “end of the World” and look around the National Park. We started talking to a taxi driver, who was very friendly and said that he could take us on a 3 hour tour, for US$100. He could also take us to the train and wait for us but advised against taking the trip US$70 for a 2km trip.
We decided to take the offer and away we went. He asked if we wanted to speak English or Spanish. He said that he would be more comfortable in Spanish, so that’s what we did.
He was was born in Ushuaia and a mine of information. He told us about the history of the place, population, economic background, crap Government and apologised for the Falklands war.
He said that Ushuaia was a busy resort in both winter and summer. Many Brazilians come to ski in winter and the national park is very popular in Summer.
The population is 100,000 and has doubled in the last 10 years. This is mainly due to the Government offering tax incentives to attract industry to the area – no VAT etc. It has attracted electronics companies, who assemble mobile phones and computers.
As far as history is concerned, there was nothing here until about 1900, when Chile and Argentina started fighting for the possession of Tierra del Fuego. Argentina began to build a settlement but decided to do so by constructing a prison and using the convicts to cut down the trees and quarry the stone to build it.
It was closed in 1950 and the railway to the end of the World is all that remains of the line that was built to transport the materials.
Seems that most people are fed up of the government and blame corruption for not creating wealth from the country’s resources.
Trivia was very good and only one point off the winners.
Claire Balding gave her second lecture which was very entertaining – mainly about horses, her family horse training activities and the royals.
Did some pedalling in the afternoon but still have not found a market for my watts.
Gala night (again), so best frock.
Shared a dinner table with another couple and two ladies. One had a husband who had caught a cold and decided to stay in the cabin. The other had left her husband at home – he really didn’t mind her coming by herself. Probably told him that she would go to the end of the Earth for him and he decided to send her.
She really was a pain and took over the conversation – mostly to tell us that she had been everywhere, done everything and always travelled Club Class. Fortunately, she gets off at the next stop (San Antonio) and Club Classes her way back to Manchester.
The other lady, who was sitting next to me started to tell me about having to be taken off the ship in Samoa and flown to New Zealand for medical treatment last year – we were on the same cruise. She was interrupted by Mrs Bucket, extolling the virtues of private medical care.
She then managed to move the conversation on to why, unlike the rest of us, she did not have a yellow fever vaccination exemption – doctor said she was far to fit to suffer from any, age related, side effects. I was was going to ask if that included verbal diarrhoea but could not get it in.
Went on to the ballroom and had a chat to our dance host friends. They told us that they had been hauled in front of the Entertainments’ Director – Fat Freddie – and been told that there had been adverse reports about them and given a week to improve but not told in what respect. Presumably, they will have to walk the plank at our next stop, if they do not make the grade.
Suspect that jealousy and Mrs Meercat have something to do with it.
Cold and windy, with quite rough seas. Not really the weather for walking around the promenade deck, so went to the gym to do some more pedalling. Generated about 50 Watthours – wonder if I can sell it back to the ship?
Trivia score was mid – level but can do better.
Captain’s cocktails again tonight and must take advice to go to the far corner of the ballroom, where there are drinks aplenty.
Merry evening and had an entertaining dinner.
There is a rumour that the author, Iain Banks – Rebus etc – is on board but as a passenger, rather than speaker.
Nice holiday resort with lots of apartments and long sandy beaches.
Most of the trips from the ship were to visit penguins and sea lions, in the surrounding National Park.
We did not bother with the excursions, as they involved at least 3 hours on a bus and contented ourselves with wandering around.
The town had 7,000 residents in the 1970’s but this has increased to 70,000, with the opening of a large aluminium smelting plant – some Chinese investment is suspected.
There is also a strong Welsh connection, with settlers arriving in the 1860’s and the Welsh language is still spoken by their descendants. They are supposed to have named the town after Madryn – a Welsh Baron.
Our destination guide did not give a great deal of information about the town but was at pains to expand on the Welsh heritage, showing pictures of the local Eisteddfod and explaining how to count in Welsh.
There are also monuments and memorials to the Falklands War, with many of the troops leaving from here.
There were some murals from the 40th anniversary of the war (2022), claiming the the Malvinas belonged to Argentina but the locals were friendly and welcoming.
Set sail at 5pm, for two days cruising to Ushuaia, where the temperature is forecast to be 0º.
Noticeably cooler outside but still bright and sunny.
Headed for Trivia but two of our team did not turn up – something dodgy with last night’s dinner option of scallops.
Turned out to be our best performance yet and with 15 points, we were just one behind the winners. We would have been in the playoff, if we had a full team, as one of the absentees was a doctor, who was fully aware of of the medical name for the “cheekbone” – we got it wrong.
Everything around the ship seemed to be quite crowded. It was difficult to find a seat for lunch – some seats taken by people but others reserved by the placement of books, drinks and various old bags.
There is a burger bar on the open deck, adjacent to the buffet and we finished up there, squeezing into the two seats that were not covered with towels – there was a German copy of the Daily Bugle on the table, so I suspect the nationality of the owners.
Stood in the queue, behind various versions of Mr and Mrs Wimpy, who were competing on how many calories you can get on a burger bun.
Finally ordered a hotdog, which was very good but probably too much.
There was a matinee magic show at 2:45. The magician was supposed to have performed last night but had hurt his back.
Some people had seen him before and praised his “making people disappear” trick. Lynne said that we should take a seat at the front, in case he needed a volunteer. I thought that was particularly hurtful but perhaps she has got used to eating my food.
Still feeling a bit grumpy and guilty about my over indulgence, I went to the gym at about 4pm. One of the four bikes was out of order and the others were taken by people who looked like they were getting stuck into a stage of the Tour de France.
More cursing on the way back to the cabin.
Sat with a chatty group of experienced cruisers at dinner – one couple had completed 800 days with Cunard and had booked another World cruise for 2026.
There were four ladies and two men on the table and I was sitting next to the other man. He was a few years older than me and much deafer. He grew up in Scotland but moved south during his career. He said that he ran a construction company and asked what I did. I told him that I had once worked for BT and the rest of the evening descended into a litany of complaints about how bad BT was and how he could never get lines for his development sites. His wife had also worked for the same firm and she got involved as well. I finally worked out that all of this took place 30 to 40 years ago. I told him that he should have called me and I would have fixed it. Of course, that would have been difficult, as he didn’t have a telephone. Keeping my head down in future.
I was informed that the Captain had not told us the full story about our slow departure from Buenos Aires. The ship tracking apps showed that we had tried to get into Montevideo, to recover the missing container of supplies. We were unsuccessful, as there was no berth. Presumably, it is following us on a lorry, or perhaps, crossing the Andes, to meet us in Chile.
Clear day and surprised to see that the pilot did not leave until 7am. Thought that we must have been delayed in our departure but after listening to Captain’s midday broadcast, realised that the exit from Buenos Aires is through a long, dredged, channel. The Captain also included a notice that our supplies had not arrived as planned and that there may be some items that were no longer available – be interesting to see what happens.
Trivia was a surprising success and scored 16 but still 3 points behind the winners. I am becoming a bit worried about the marking. One question was about the Plimsoll Line. In general terms, it shows the depth of the bottom of the hull in the water. The correct answer was given in quite legalistic terms and I could not imagine anyone having that answer. The team marking our paper gave our answer as incorrect but I am sure others used a bit of leeway. When we returned to the cabin, there was a questionnaire on our cruise experience and a box for suggestions. As well as calling for Sergei (dance instructor) to be keel hauled, I said that VAR should be introduced for Trivia.
One of this morning’s “check your brain function” lectures was given by Claire Balding. The title was “Broadcasting behind the scenes”. It was mainly about the 2024 Olympics but very entertaining and there are a couple more to follow.
We have had a few LBG whatever presenters and I have noticed that they always make a point of telling their audience about it and mentioning their partners – not something you hear from other presenters.
Thunderstorms throughout the night and temperature dropped to low 20’s.
Booked in for the tango show this afternoon and have to be ready for the bus for 2:15.
Lynne still nursing her cold and as it was raining, decided not to go ashore. I went to the gym to do some pedalling and Lynne went to the laundrette, to do some ironing and gossiping.
We joined the queue for the buses and were taken on a quick tour of the city centre, before arriving at the Señor Tango theatre. Our guide knew that we had been to Uruguay first and felt obliged to correct any propaganda that we may have picked up. For instance: Argentina invented the Tango and not, as we had previously been told, Uruguay. The major tango singer – Gardel – was born in France and emigrated to Argentina, as a child. He was definitely not born in Montevideo. Uruguay’s defeat of Argentina, in the 1950 World Cup was due to biased refereeing.
At the theatre, we were directed to our seats on the balcony. The dining tables were arranged in booths and you had to move to seats at the edge of the balcony, to see the show.
We thought that it may be dinner and then the show, or the other was around but both took place at the same time. I was taking photographs when the starter – Empanadas – arrived and no-one thought to get one for me. Lynne quickly scoffed hers, so not even a sniff. I took refuge in the plentiful supply of wine, which I was able to augment further by speaking to the waiter in Spanish. The main course – Steak and Chips – arrived towards the end of the show. The steaks were very big and Lynne asked the waiter if he could bring her a smaller one. He promptly took it away and that was the last we saw of him. Selflessly an without holding a grudge over my missing empanada, I said that Lynne could share my steak. She carried on eating, while I chatted to the person sitting next to me. Admittedly, given the amount of wine I had drunk, I was not at my most alert but when I turned around, all of the steak had gone and I was greeted by a large burp. This, of course, is my side of the story but I certainly did not get anything to eat.
The show was really spectacular, especially the part where two horses were ridden onto the stage – fortunately, they were well behaved, otherwise it could have been challenging for the dancers.
The lack of food did not seem to matter. I had lost track of time and it was only about 7:30, when I staggered towards the bus.
Cloudless, warm day. Been here a couple of times before but really is a beautiful place.
Lynne’s cold not improved, so delayed our departure and caught shuttle bus at around 11am.
Dropped off at the top of the main shopping street – Calle Florida – and ambled along, looking in the shops and hidden galerías.
More expensive than Brazil but about the same as the U.K.
Called in a cafe, at about 1pm and said that we just wanted to order coffees – last thing we need is more food. It was very pleasant and German themed, with German City shields adorning the walls. Also had some German specialties on the menu and Lynne could not resist the Strudel with ice cream. I was obliged to even things up and ordered empanadas – bit of a mistake, as there were two of them and about the size of Greggs’ Cornish pasties. Noticed the size of the meals and they were definitely US sized portions.
Waddled further on but temperature was up to 34º and decided to return to ship, at about 3pm.
