Category: Chile

Quite overcast when we docked. Typical of the area, where cold Humboldt Current produces morning fog.

As usual, not allowed to walk from ship in working ports, so had to wait for shuttle bus for 5 minute ride to the terminal building.

Very busy fishing port with fish market extending along the waterfront.

Coquimbo has a history of piracy and there are replica galleons and catamarans offering trips around the bay.

After almost 50 days at sea and sailing 15,000 miles, I have no idea why we chose to take one – other than it was cheap and offered a panoramic view of the town.

Unfortunately, the biggest most exciting event of the day was the arrival of the Queen Victoria. The result was that the cruise around the bay turned into a one hour trip around the Queen Victoria.

Went on to walk through the streets further back from the shoreline and on to a modern shopping centre.

There was also the historic area of houses built by the first British settlers but the rest was a bit run down.

Supplies have caught up with us, so crisps and tomato juice are readily available.

Bright and sunny but a cold breeze. We decided not to take an excursion, as they all involved long drives, to either Valparaiso or Santiago. We had been to Valparaiso a few years ago and although I quite fancied seeing Santiago, we chose to explore San Antonio instead. It turned out to be a good decision, as there was a major power failure at about 3pm, which affected much of Northern Chile, including Santiago, Valparaiso and San Antonio. The excursions had to be cut short, as all the traffic lights failed and shops were closed.

San Antonio is a fishing port and a bit run down. There were banners around with slogans from the local fishermen complaining about factory fishing and lots of stalls along the sea front, selling tat.

We wandered around for a few hours and Lynne had a haircut. We chatted to the owner of the shop and her husband. They were very friendly and charged only US$10 – a tenth of the cost of the ship hairdo.

Unfortunately, Lynne said that they had taken a bit too much off and she was now feeling the cold from the Humboldt Current cooled breeze. The result was a visit to a clothes shop, where much of the saving was wiped out by the purchase of a 60 dollar fleece.

When we arrived back at the cabin, I realised that I had lost my spare pair of glasses. I remembered having them in the shuttle bus, so I called reception, to ask if they had been handed in. They said that I should come down to inspect their crate of lost spectacles. Fortunately, mine were on top and had been found close to the reception desk.

Someone said that 600 passengers disembarked and 400 got on, so 200 vacancies – wonder if we will notice the difference?

More dancing in the evening and one of the Lounge Lizards asked Lynne to dance. Was terminated quickly, as they disagreed on the Rumba steps.

Quite early to bed.

Bright and sunny morning, with calm seas.

Two of our Trivia team are leaving tomorrow, in San Antonio, to fly back to Australia. We were hoping for a breakthrough to mark the occasion but we fell short. There were some very obtuse and dodgy questions – what does “Per aspera ad astra” mean?

I complained to Porky Peter, saying that the motto of the RAF was “Ad Astra per Ardua” but he insisted that he had googled it and he was correct – think he is a “diversity hire”, as POTUS would describe it.

We need to get on with our recruitment from the new passengers and I think we should look for Americans, as there are a few US related questions where we are weak.

One of the other teams, who have won on a few occasions, are also losing two team members and I received a veiled approach to join them but I am loyal to my team and they did not offer enough wine.

Back to doing our laps of the deck and I also managed some pedalling in the afternoon.

Decided that we would try some dancing before dinner, rather than wait until the Sequence fascists had finished their 45 minute parade, from 8pm. Unfortunately, the ballroom was being used for a cocktail party for the passengers who are leaving tomorrow and we were directed to one of the bar/disco type lounges. The Tango group had just finished their session but there were a couple of stragglers still on the floor – a younger woman and an elderly gentleman, trying to perfect their moves. The young lady appeared to be trying to get her leg around her partner’s neck. They finally left the floor to give way to the displaced ballroom dancers.

We started speaking to one couple, who were sequence dancers and had complained to the entertainments director (Fat Freddie) about the lack of opportunities for them to practice their art.

Displaying my usual flexibility of firmly held beliefs, I sympathised with them but with crossed fingers behind my back.

We wandered on to dinner and then to the now open ballroom, where it was party night. It was obvious that the cocktail party had gone well, judging by the freestyle dancing of some wobbly octogenarians. There were obviously thinking that they would never see the rest of the passengers again, so let their hair down – figuratively speaking, as there was not much of it and that was grey.

One energetic couple tripped – they said it was an ankle tap from another dancer – and fell in a heap in the middle of the floor. The stretcher bearers were quickly on the scene but not needed.

It was a very jolly evening and we were late to bed.

Foggy with drizzle as we came in but noticeably warmer.

Bit of a cockup with the tenders and around 10:30 when we came ashore. It had given time for the weather to improve – drizzle had almost stopped and sun was coming out.

Thought about taking an excursion with one of taxi drivers at the end of the dock but they were all offering quite long drives into the “Lake District” with a stop at the village built by the German settlers. After so much time at sea, we decided that it may be better to walk, rather than spending 6 hours in a minibus.

The town was clean and pleasant, with a fish market and restaurants at one end and modern shopping centre at the other.

We returned to the ship at about 3pm, via the souvenir stands. I bought my usual fridge magnet and was surprised to receive change in $US, having paid in local currency. Went on to the wine shop, to buy some “souvenir” Chilean wine. The stall holder spoke only Spanish but his teenage nephew was fluent in English, having visited a language school in Brighton. We told him that we want to speak Spanish and asked for Spanish reduction on the wine prices – I received a laugh but no discount. The uncle was a football fan and keen on Manchester United, as they used to have a Chilean player. It was all very pleasant and he asked if I also wanted a baseball cap, with the winemaker’s logo. I asked if it was a present and he finally agreed to give it to me. He was wearing a cap with the name of his shop on it and I asked if I could swap for one of those. He grabbed his nephew’s cap and gave it to me.

The Chileans are friendly and good natured, with strong historic connections to the U.K.

Admiral Cochrane was in charge of their fleet and fought, alongside the first President (O’Higgins – see picture) for independence from Spain, in the 1850‘s. Cochrane was previously in the British Navy but thrown out (later pardoned by Queen Victoria.

The British built much of the infrastructure and traded in copper and guano.

We also started a war between Chile against Peru and Bolivia – Chile won, so that’s ok.

Margaret Thatcher’s support for Genera Pinochet, in the 1980‘s was also very popular with Chileans of a certain age and political persuasion.

Still windy and outside decks restricted but weather becoming warmer. Getting a bit stir crazy, after 6 days at sea and being confined inside.

Trivia going well but seem to have reached our level.

Missing the stop in Punta Arenas means that new entertainers and speakers were unable to board, so existing contingent has been pressed into more performances.

Ian Rankin has also been press-ganged into a question and answer session. It was very good but fortunately, I refrained from asking a question. I was going to ask about his science fiction books but realised that I was confusing him with the other Scottish author – Iain Banks (Wasp Factory etc) – died in 2013.

Headmaster gave his usual censorial midday address. Will probably ask us to stand to attention in future.

Did some pedalling this afternoon, before getting ready for the Gala Evening – 1920‘s theme. Lynne said that we did not have any suitable clothing but then took a look at my dinner suit and decided it would be okay.

Lots of feathers floating about but quite good fun.

The sequence dancers took over the floor from 8 to 9pm, so had to wait to get going.

I suspect that the sequence lot are a fascist group in disguise. They maintain strict marching discipline and thrust their arms into the air at regular intervals, accompanied by a shout of something sounding like Heil. Think they are also homophobic, as no Gay Gordons in their repertoire.

When we finally took to the floor, Lynne said that the man behind us was chuntering. Apparently, I carved him up with my spin turn and chassis.

The effects of the missed container are now being felt – no crisps, anchovies (for the Caesar Salad), Alpen, or tomato juice – have to change to orange juice with my vodka.

No dancing last night, as weather became worse, with gale force winds and rough seas. Quiz went well but still a couple of points of the lead.

Captain now sounds like a headmaster, as he tells us of his decisions not to take us nearer to the glaciers and to close off the outside decks.

Went to the buffet for lunch but as no outside dining, it was full. Found some seats on a table of four, with one seat occupied by an elderly gentleman. Asked if we could join him and he grunted his bad tempered agreement.

Lynne tried to engage him in conversation but he was not very responsive and she asked if he spoke English. He said that he “had a little” but was German – why was I not surprised?

I kicked her under the table, to tell her that she was flogging a dead horse – ein toten Pferd.

I had noticed, on my flyby through the buffet, that they had chips and suddenly had an urge for a chip butty. I left my seat and went to collect my ingredients. When I returned, I was surprised that Lynne was speaking Spanish to our German neighbour and he was now quite enthusiastic. Turns out that he has a house in Majorca and was quite fluent. He was an experienced cruiser but definitely grumpy and not impressed by the Headmaster and the facilities on the cruise – mainly concerning the “wellness center”, with its steam room – no cold water to cool down, massages – incompetent masseuses, sauna – no snow to roll in.

Lynne tried to change the subject and asked if he was travelling alone. He replied that his wife had a prime seat in the Commodore Lounge, at the front of the ship, where there were fantastic views of the fjords. She had not come to lunch, as she did not want to lose her place.

I was going to ask if she was unable to find a towel but this time, Lynne kicked me under the table.

Left the fjord and came out into the rough seas and high seas of the Pacific. Headmaster advised those who took sea sickness medication to take it now. He also scolded passengers who were ignoring the barriers and going out on the open deck.

Must agree with him, as 90 knot gusts and 20m waves can be a bit dangerous.

Lots of pitching and rolling throughout the night – as predicted.

Trivia went well and only a couple of points behind the winners – could have made the playoffs, if we had not changed answers to majority decision.

Glaciers approached around midday, so everyone out on deck, to listen to the commentary and take photographs.

Becoming warmer and calm sea (as you would expect in a fjord) but overcast.

Dancing forecast fore this evening, so need to practice my moves.

Bumpy night. Captain says that we were hit by 95 knot gust of wind and warned of high seas, with more to come.

Had a brief walk outside but only part of promenade deck open.

Trivia went well but still no prize.

More talks from Claire Balding, Astronomer and Prison Governor.

Stunning scenery and should arrive at glaciers tomorrow.